• Architectural Detailing
• Concrete Blocks
• Free Advice for Improving Your Home
• Garage Doors
• Gutters

Have you ever marveled at the intricate gingerbread of a classic San Francisco Victorian, admired a stately Southern Colonial or enjoyed the hand-wrought detailing of a Craftsman bungalow? One feature that all outstanding traditional-style homes share is great architectural millwork.

The term "architectural millwork" encompasses a raft of materials and products. Also known as "architectural ornamentation," "detailing," "carpenter art" or simply "trim," this refers to the moldings, posts, columns and other detailing applied to house exteriors. The genre' includes shutters that flank windows; pediments and pilasters that surround doors; dentil and crown moldings; columns; and the other elements that add interest and anchor a house's architecture in the vernacular of a given period and style. Much millwork serves a functional role, too--moldings hide the transitions between differing materials and columns may provide support, for example. Many of these moldings and products are used inside rooms as well as on exteriors.

If you intend to build a traditional-style home or you own an older traditional house, it pays to be familiar with decorative millwork. The trim of existing older homes often has been removed during earlier "remodeling" and begs for replacement. Or, because millwork is particularly vulnerable to the abuses of harsh weather, it's often in shoddy condition. Being familiar with decorative millwork is key to choosing types and styles that will look great and last.

The first step is to learn the language; a substantial vocabulary is built around the parts and pieces, from capitals to pediments, corbels to pilasters. See below for the definitions of common components.

Historically, decorative millwork has been shaped, carved or built-up from wood. Although wood is still often the material of choice, much of today's decorative millwork is made of high-density polymers and other composites, synthetics or manufactured materials. Here is a closer look at the most common materials:

Wooden Detailing

Wooden detailing is easy to cut and fasten, durable and--of importance to restoration enthusiasts--authentic. Pine, a softwood, is very commonly used; poplar is a moderately-priced hardwood. Other species such as redwood, cedar, and oak are used, too.

Although some species, such as redwood and cedar heartwood, have a natural resistance to decay, all wood must be protected from weathering with stain or--more likely--paint. To guarantee continued protection, this finish must be reapplied every few years.

Wooden gingerbread, newel posts, porch posts, moldings and similar wooden millwork is made both by small, local mills, and by large mills that distribute to home-improvement centers, lumberyards, millwork shops, and sell directly through mail-order catalogs. Two such companies that offer products by mailorder are Silverton Victorian Millworks and Vintage Wood Works. These companies have many stock components and will produce custom materials.

How much does wooden detailing cost? Because the offerings are so varied, even ballpark prices are almost impossible to pin down. Silverton's popular Colorado handrail, which is 2 inches by 2 3/4 inches, runs about $4.50 per lineal foot in hemlock and $7.50 per lineal foot in oak. The best way to see the selection and pinpoint prices is to request a catalog.

In general, quality wood is a scarce and expensive resource--and you pay for it accordingly. Wood meant to be painted is considerably less expensive than material meant to be finished naturally or stained with a transparent finish. When choosing wood, you must also consider the fact that many types of moldings are actually built-up on site from several molding profiles; both labor and material costs can escalate with complexity.

Composites

PrimeTrim(r) exterior and interior trim from Georgia-Pacific is an all-wood composite that is highly resistant to rot and decay, and has no knots, finger joints or defects. It is sold factory primed on the face and two edges and is said to require re-painting less than traditional wood trim. It is made in 16-foot lengths and may have either a smooth or textured surface.

Plaster

Plaster has been used for centuries to create interesting detailing. Today, plaster is used for a variety of interior details, including mantels, crown moldings, ceiling domes and the like. On building exteriors, it is used for some columns, corbels, wall plaques and other small details. One plus for plaster is the fact that it is all-natural--made from gypsum and typically reinforced with hemp. It must be sealed for weather protection. Plaster Cast Designs, in Shelbyville, Tennessee, is one company that sells an extensive line of stock parts by mailorder and can custom-cast parts by request.

Polyurethane Foam

New moldings and architectural elements are commonly made from high-density polyurethane foam. Easy to cut and fasten with standard woodworking tools, polyurethane isn't subject to some problems associated with wood: shrinkage, expansion, warping, splintering and decay. Molded detailing is usually factory finished with a UV-inhibiting primer and white acrylic finish. It may be painted or stained with a non-penetrating stain. Finishes on polyurethane tend to last longer than on wood.

Unlike wood moldings that are often combined from several different pieces, these molded products are one piece, which makes them much more affordable to install than wood.

Many different components are available. The largest manufacturer of these products, Fypon, makes over 3500 different styles and sizes. And if you can't find a stock piece that suits you, you can get it custom formed to your specifications. NMC Focal Point and Orac Decor also distribute a full line of products throughout the United States.

Typical products made from polyurethane include door surrounds--both complete or with separate pilasters, mantels and pediments; decorative window headers; raised panels for under windows; decorative scrollwork brackets; gable-end trim; corner trim; shutters; dentil blocks for under soffits; cornice moldings and more.

Many homeowners install polyurethane moldings themselves, following the manufacturer's instructions. These materials are cut with conventional woodworking saws (a special miter box is available for large profiles). They're usually tacked in place with finishing nails, but special adhesives are used for joining moldings that create joints guaranteed not to crack or separate. Small profiles are priced similarly to wood, but larger profiles are more economical because they're made as a single piece.

For mail-order catalogs or the names of nearby dealers, you can contact the companies directly. Because the offerings are so vast, the best way to check prices is to get a catalog. Orac Decor's most popular crown moldings range from about $10 per lineal foot to $17 per foot. All are sold in 6 1/2-foot lengths.

Siding System Accessories

Alcoa, CertainTeed, Wolverine, and other major manufacturers of vinyl siding produce classic details made from vinyl that are designed to coordinate with siding systems. These products include window and door surrounds, shutters, corner posts, dentil molding and a range of other components, as well as decorative custom shingle and siding patterns.

For example, Alcoa Building Products' line of Images Designer Accessories includes Accent Panels in four fish scale patterns, wainscot, dryer vents and fixture mounts. These decorative accessories are available in a wide range of colors and can be used with vinyl and aluminum siding, brick and stone.

CertainTeed has gone to great lengths to create trim that mimics the look of wood. "To make our siding systems appear more wood like, we designed more substantial trim components that resemble 1 by 4 and 1 by 6 wood boards--the materials carpenters typically use," says Robert Long, marketing manager of the siding division of Certainteed's Vinyl Building Products Group. One of the benefits of this system, which is designed to be used with Monogram vinyl siding, is that trim parts can be interchanged or combined quite freely to make up very realistic profiles.

Wolverine also offers a realistic line that includes a premium, super-rigid soffit; fish scale, beaded and lattice panels; extra-wide fluted, stepped, or smooth corner posts; and stepped window trim.

If your home is sided with aluminum, you may be able to use some vinyl specialty parts; otherwise, you can get custom-bent aluminum pieces for some architectural features, but these tend to be expensive and not very authentic looking.

Columns

Some columns are structural; others are merely decorative. Structural types are made of materials that can bear substantial weight: wood, aluminum or fiberglass composites. Non-structural columns are made of polymers (some are hollow and may receive weight-bearing wood or metal posts). Non-structural columns come in many classic shapes. They're typically sold in increments of 4-foot lengths and may be coupled with any of a variety of decorative caps and bases.

Fypon makes a line of columns that are both beautiful and structural--these columns, including classic styles as well as porch posts and even lamp posts, have a steel pipe that has been wrapped in polymer. A special cap that prevents uplift in high-wind or seismic areas is available. These are made in 10 and 12-foot lengths. A typical 10-inch-diamter by 8-foot column will cost about $225 in either plane or fluted styles; capitals and bases, sold separately, are about $20 each.

Real wood columns are available in cylindrical, tapered, and squared profiles. The surfaces of some are decorative--fluted, for example. Typically, a column is sold as a complete kit, with a separate decorative wooden cap and base. Although the wood is preservative treated, it must be painted. Sizes range from 6-inch-diameter by 8-feet long to 20-inch-diameter by 20-feet long.

Some aluminum columns are structural; others are not. Although most are primed with a special bonding primer that may be painted, some have factory-applied finishes. These extruded columns are hollow, typically constructed from interlocking sections or staves. For example, Moultrie Manufacturing's columns come in snap-lock staves; although they are load-bearing columns, they may be wrapped around an existing column or post. Lengths run up to 30 feet long; diameters are from 5 to 36 inches.

Composite columns, made from a mixture of ground marble, fiberglass and polymer resin, are also load-bearing. These hollow columns offer the look of stone, but they are lightweight, tough and highly durable. For a 10-inch-diameter by 10-foot-long fluted column from NMC Focal Point, you'll pay about $250. Capitals and bases are sold separately.

Some columns are made from a combination of materials. A.F. Schwerd Company, for example, makes custom columns from tongue-and-groove wooden staves with aluminum bases. According to Pat McKenry, "If a column goes bad for any reason, it's usually the base--we make an aluminum base because it's less likely to rot and it's ventilated. These bases will last forever." An average 8-foot tall by 10-inch-diameter column sells for about $577 plus shipping; a fluted column costs about 25% more. Dixie-Pacific offers wooden columns with either wood or composition plaster capitals and wood or cast marble base moldings.

Of course, columns only fit certain styles of architecture. But whether your house is a Greek Revival beauty or a shingled bungalow, you'll find there is a wide range of millwork products that can imbue it with interest, grace and charm.
Millwork Terms

Arch surrounds-- Half-round or elliptical trim mounted above a door or window.

Bracket-- Filigree or ornamental blocks between a vertical support and horizontal member. Brackets usually provide crossbracing or support between a post and beam or a beam and cornice.

Capital-- The decorative top of a column or pilaster.

Corbel-- A short block or bracket projecting from a wall, often meant to provide support for a horizontal member.

Cornice-- Projection at the top of a wall, under a roof's eaves.

Dentil blocks--Blocks attached to a wall that present a toothed pattern.

Dentil molding--Toothed molding attached to a wall.

Gable decoration--Triangular-shaped filigree or panel fitted into the rake end of a gable roof.

Header or head-- Horizontal projection over the top of a window or a doorway.

Keystone-- Angular block centered over a door or window in a header or mantle.

Concrete Blocks, Pavers & Roofing

As energy costs climb upward, accompanied by rising lumber and labor prices, home builders are seriously exploring alternatives to traditional wood-frame construction. Ironically, one of the most promising, innovative "new" home-building materials is actually as old as the hills: concrete.

In home construction, concrete has long been the standard for foundations, slabs, driveways and patios. But until recent years, its heavy weight and lackluster appearance relegated it primarily to low-visibility uses. Now a variety of new technologies and products have given concrete an entirely new personality. Today, concrete materials are used for house wall construction, roofing, siding, flooring, paving and more.

Concrete Basics
Composed of cement or lime, an aggregate such as sand or gravel and water, concrete dates back to Roman ruins. In fact, concrete was prevalent in many early civilizations where natural cement deposits existed. Its modern-day popularity began in the early 19th century, when portland cement--a strong, durable, artificial cement that can be manufactured almost anywhere--was invented (cement is produced when quarried calcium, silica, alumina and iron compounds are heated at very high temperatures). Concrete soon became the material of choice for dams, highways, large buildings and other structures requiring strong, massive construction.

Today, ordinary structural concrete is made from portland cement, water and sand or aggregate. The cement and water mix to form a paste that, through a chemical reaction, binds together aggregate such as sand, gravel or crushed stone. A pigment--iron oxide, for example--may be added to give the finished concrete a decorative look. As this paste cures, the mass becomes rock-hard.

The quality and strength of finished concrete rely on the makeup of the "mix." Ideally, the cement paste coats and completely fills all of the voids between every particle of aggregate, a feat accomplished through proven formulas. Concrete is "cured" to minimize shrinking and increase tensile strength, normally by keeping it damp for several days.

In most cases, concrete alone is not strong enough to withstand eventual cracking unless it is properly reinforced. A slab or patio typically has a wire mesh embedded in the surface; a foundation or wall has a skeletal core of steel reinforcement rods.

Conventional driveways, patios, slabs and foundations are cast in place; normally, temporary forms contain the semi-liquid material until it dries, then the forms are removed. The concrete is mixed on site or delivered from a central supplier by rotating-drum truck. The latter type, called "ready-mixed" concrete, is usually more consistent in quality than site-mixed concrete.

Concrete is also sold precast as foundation piers, roof tiles, pavers, building blocks and more. As discussed below, many of these precast products incorporate innovations that make them highly practical choices for home building. In general, precast concrete eliminates the variables and inconsistencies of site casting and the need for building forms.

Building Blocks
The utilitarian concrete block has gained new respect in recent years. Now called "concrete masonry units" or "CMUs," blocks are used increasingly as substitutes for conventional wood-framed, above-grade exterior walls. Concrete masonry construction may cost slightly more, but builders and homeowners like its durability, strength and heat-retention qualities. Insulation can be foamed or inserted into the hollow cores or applied as a rigid board to the surface to increase resistance to heat flow.

Concrete block won't burn, rot or be eaten by termites. And it produces a wall that is secure, sound-deadening and effective at reducing thermal swings. "If you want permanence, security, resistance to fire, wind and insects, you ought to consider concrete masonry," says Robb Jolly of the National Concrete Masonry Association (NCMA). He adds, "Concrete masonry has a life that extends into the hundreds of years. It is still one of the most environmentally friendly products on the marketplace."

Home Magazine's Safe and Sound Home, featured in the February, 1996, issue, is an example of how beautiful and effective concrete units can be as a primary building material. This 3200-square-foot traditional home has an exterior of stucco and concrete-lookalike limestone that gives it the feel of an adobe-and-stone farm house. Interior walls have a durable, sound-deadening finish of rigid insulation and gypsum wallboard.

The cost of concrete block construction varies from one area to the next. A concrete block house can run from 5% to 10% more than a wood-frame house where builders aren't familiar with the material. The blocks themselves cost from 60 to 90 cents each.

Architectural Block
For those who want blocks that can be left exposed, architectural blocks are the answer. These are essentially the same as conventional concrete blocks, except they resemble polished granite, look like hand-hewn stone or tile or have other decorative finishes.

One popular variety, "splitface architectural block," has an irregular, coarse texture that provides contrast and shadow lines. It comes in several earth tones; the color is integral to the block's makeup. "Half highs," only half the height of conventional concrete blocks (4 inches, not 8) are popular for visual contrast.

Architectural blocks are ideal for a house with a walk-out basement, where considerable foundation wall can be seen because they can eliminate the need for brick veneer, stucco or other exterior finishes. Exposed architectural blocks look good as interior walls, too. The Concrete Masonry Association promotes a basement with exposed architectural blocks as "Smart Space" because it can provide finished living space for a relatively small investment.

Prices for architectural block vary, depending upon the type of block and area. Most run from about 75 cents to $1.25 each.

Lightweight Solid Blocks
Successfully used to build houses in Europe for many years, "precast autoclaved, aerated concrete" (PAAC) blocks are now being manufactured in Georgia by Hebel Southeast. This system employs an oversized, lightweight solid block that is laid-up with very strong, thinset mortar.

During manufacture, the raw material is mixed from cement, fine aggregates and a natural expansion agent. Once molded, it is given a moisture and heat treatment under pressure, called autoclaving. As a result, the material rises like bread dough, with thousands of tiny air pockets. The resulting block is durable, lightweight and a relatively good insulator. Even more impressive is the fact that it can be cut and drilled like wood, using ordinary carpentry tools, and you can nail or screw into it.

Technically, these blocks have an insulation value of about R-10, but a wall built of these effectively offers about three times that, because it blocks air infiltration and provides thermal storage mass.

The 8 by 8 by 24-inch-long blocks weigh about 28 pounds (conventional poured concrete weighs about 150 pounds per cubic foot). They're laid with a tiny, 3mm mortar joint between blocks; the latex mortar is trowelled on like a thick paint.

Cement-base stucco can be applied directly to the block surface. Or the block wall can be finished with any conventional siding on the exterior or drywall over furring strips inside. Channels for wiring are carved out with a router.

This system is currently available only in the Southeast. Finished inside and out, this system runs about $2.50 to $3.00 on the average--about 1% to 5% more than conventional wood stud or masonry construction with insulation but, as Hebel's Mike Sweeny points out, "It's like buying a good HVAC system--you get a return on your investment over time."

Foam Form Systems
Insulating forms are another bright idea; they're used for cast-in-place concrete construction. With these lightweight, rigid expanded polystyrene (EPS) units, a builder can quickly form house walls, insert steel reinforcing, then pour concrete in the center cavities. The rigid foam is left in place to serve as wall insulation, providing values of from R-20 to R-50.

These EPS systems are made either as panels or stackable blocks. Both are extremely easy to work with. The foam may be routed or cut to accept electrical wiring. Stucco or conventional siding may be applied over the exterior foam skin; interior walls are often drywalled.

A panel system typically has 4-foot by 8-foot foam panels that are easily cut, then joined by special plastic ties. One typical block system, from I.C.E. Block Building Systems, employs 48-inch-long by 16-inch-high blocks rimmed with tongue-and-groove edges. Once filled with concrete, hollows in the forms create a waffle-shaped concrete web with vertical columns on 12-inch centers and horizontal beams every 16 inches. Interlocking integral steel "studs" fall every 1 foot on center, holding the two sides of the foam together and offering a member for attaching finishes. Although this system can be used for basement walls, it is intended as a complete, footer-to-roof system.

For foam materials only, you'll pay $2.80 to $3.00 per square foot of wall area, delivered. The cost of building, including foam, concrete, steel and labor, varies greatly but is in the range of from $5.50 to $8 per square foot of floor area. This can vary widely depending upon the house and location. Overall, an I.C.E. Block house may cost an extra 5% to 10% to build, but it offers exceptional savings on heating and cooling, as well as the quiet, solid, pest- free benefits of concrete construction.

Concrete Pavers and Paving
Concrete has also made enormous strides right at our feet, with pavers and decorative paving systems. Precast interlocking pavers, concrete stamping, stenciling, coating and more have given concrete paving great character and visual interest at relatively affordable prices.

Mortarless interlocking pavers are available in a variety of colors, shapes and sizes. Machine-made, they offer high-strength paving solutions for driveways, walkways and patios floors. Assembled without mortar, they are typically installed in a shallow bed of sand and, to create a solid interlock, sand is vibrated between the paver joints. Material prices of pavers tend to run from about $1 to $2 per square foot.

Companies such as Bomanite and Increte Systems train and certify installers to stain, color, acid wash, stencil, coat, stamp and otherwise decoratively treat concrete surfaces. Their services and products are used for both existing and new concrete work. Many different colors, designs and textures are possible, simulating slate, fieldstone, brick and a world of other materials. Bomanite, for example, comes in more than 90 patterns and 25 standard colors.

Some of these treatments make the surface harder, too. Ed Garcia, National Sales Manager of Increte, says, "We more than double the surface hardness, making it more durable and easier to clean. " Cost varies widely, depending on the size of the project, the type of treatment and your location. For a stamped concrete patio that looks like brick or stone, you're likely to pay from $6 to $8 per square foot.

Siding and Roofing
Because cement-based roofing and siding products are durable and won't catch fire, rot or be eaten by termites, they cap and clad more and more of today's homes. Stucco is essentially a type of concrete, made from a mixture of cement, lime, sand and water. Applied in three coats over a lath base, it provides a solid, durable and seamless siding. Newer EIFS (exterior insulation and finish systems) are popular alternatives to stucco; these acrylic-polymer and aggregate coatings are applied over several kinds of approved substrates, including cement-board panels made from aggregated portland cement, reinforced with glass fibers and given polymer coatings. Cost of EIFS tends to be competitive with brick where brick is common; less expensive for intricate walls or where brick siding isn't prevalent.

What appear to be stone and brick walls on houses may actually be a lightweight concrete manufactured-stone veneer. A mixture of portland cement, natural aggregates and iron oxide pigments is poured into molds made from real stones. The result, available in a broad palette of colors and styles, looks incredibly realistic. Installed prices vary widely, depending upon the cost of labor; the national average is about $8 per square foot. Retail average per square foot for materials runs from about $2.25 to $4 per square foot.

Imitation slate and tile roofing materials are made from concrete and fiber cement. Concrete, in both flat and Spanish-style tile units, is extruded under high pressure to make a rugged, dense, durable tile. Although conventional concrete tile weighs about 10 pounds per square foot, lightweight varieties are available at about half that weight. Installed, concrete tile roofing runs in the range of from $5 to $10 per square foot. Thinner fibrous-cement tiles are manufactured using portland cement, reinforcement fibers and a lightweight mineral aggregate such as perlite; they weigh about 5 pounds per square foot. Though priced competitively with wood shakes, they are highly resistant to fire, termites, moisture damage, ultra-violet breakdown and other problems associated with wood.

When you roof with some of the heavier varieties of concrete tile, the roof's supporting structure may require strenghthening. Even so, most homeowners agree that the costs are outweighed by the benefits of a solid, durable, trouble-free roof that will last as long as the house.

--Don Vandervort

Free Advice for Improving Your Home:
Tips for Hiring Contractors

Are you planning a major home improvement project in the near future? If your answer is “yes,” you're probably in the market for a contractor. Finding the right professional to handle such a project can be tricky. Trickier still is getting a great job at a fair price.

Here are a few important techniques:

When possible, choose a contractor through personal recommendations. Try to get referrals from friends or neighbors who have had similar work done. You can also find prescreened local contractors through online services.

After you've put together a short list, call and pre-qualify several contractors. Be sure each person is licensed and insured for worker's compensation, property damage, and personal liability. From each contractor, request names and phone numbers of a few satisfied customers. Call those references and ask to see the contractor's work. Don't be shy. Most people who've recently remodeled are proud to show off their homes and, if they like the contractor, they'll go out of their way to help him or her secure another job.

From at least three contractor candidates, request a formal bid based on exactly the same plans and specifications. Don't automatically choose the lowest bid. If one bid is seriously lower than the others, be suspicious of inexperience or desperation (the latter isn't necessarily a problem). Generally speaking, if a bid looks too good to be true, it probably is.

Chemistry with your contractor is critical--this person may be in your midst for several months, and there may be times when you have to haggle about difficult issues. Ask whether your job will be the only one on their plate or whether they'll be managing multiple projects at the same time. Find out whether the contractor will be on site to supervise your job or hand it off to a foreman.

When you've made a selection, ask to see his or her contractor's license and double-check insurance coverage.

At this point, you and your contractor should agree upon a written contract and both of you should sign it. The contract should include:

• Both of your names and addresses and details of all work to be performed. Don't forget to specify who will be responsible for demolition, cleanup, and trash collection. Be sure your plans are thought through completely. It's fair for a contractor to charge you for changes and modifications that are not in the plans, particularly those changes that will require more work or more expensive materials. Charges for changes and extras can send your budget though the roof.

• Materials. When specifying materials, avoid the term “or equal” unless it is clear that substitutions can't be made without your approval. If you agree to a separate budget for items you haven't selected yet, such as plumbing fixtures or floor coverings, be sure the budget figure is high enough to cover their costs. Do your homework; go to a home improvement center to price the fixtures and finishes you want.

• Payments and dates. Be sure to include a completion date and details on when and how payments will be made. Never pay more money than enough to cover work completed and materials delivered to the job—it's okay to request copies of invoices for the latter. If the contractor requests a deposit before starting work, do not pay more than 10 percent or $1000, whichever is lower. Make additional payments as the work progresses. This gives the contractor continual incentives and protects you from the possibility of a contractor disappearing after you've made early payments. Remember: money is your only leverage for getting things done.

Don't sign a completion statement or make the final payment until the job has passed final inspection. Be aware that materials suppliers or subcontractors who are owed money by your contractor can place a lien against your property. You can protect yourself from this by adding a release-of-lien clause to your contract or asking for proof of payment by your contractor. Another somewhat expensive option is to issue a portion of your payments to an escrow account to be held until the work is completed.

Is your garage door sagging and cracking, almost impossible to lift, or just generally falling apart? If it is, maybe now is the time to replace it with a new one that's easy to operate and maintain. Not only can a new garage door provide safe, secure, easy access to your garage, but --as one of your house's most visible elements-- it can renew and refresh your home's appearance.

Types of Doors
Two kinds of garage doors are available: tilt-ups and sectional roll-up doors. The tilt-up type is a single panel that pivots out and up. A sectional roll-up door is made of four or more horizontal sections, hinged together and mounted with rollers to tracks at each side so the door can roll straight up and back.

Though most tilt-up doors cost from 25% to 35% less than their sectional counterparts, a sectional door is generally favored because it's safer and easier to operate, can be opened even when a car is parked directly in front of it, and allows substantially more headroom in the garage. Because sectional doors fit behind rather than within the opening, they are more weather tight, and they are more secure because they can't be pried open from the sides.

Both types are made from a variety of materials in flush, raised-panel, and recessed-panel designs and can be purchased with options such as windows and electric operators.

Selecting a Material
Garage doors are made from wood, steel, aluminum and fiberglass. Though each of these has its benefits, wood and steel garage doors are--by far--the favorites.

Wood Doors . Wood is preferred more for its natural look, affordability and easy tooling than for its durability. Because wood expands and contracts and can warp or crack as it weathers, it demands regular maintenance--repainting or refinishing every couple of years.

The easiest to build and most affordable type of door is a tilt-up wood door. In many cases, it can be built right in the driveway by applying a skin of exterior plywood--usually 3/8-inch thick--to a frame of Douglas fir, spruce or a similar softwood. Or the frame and plywood can be covered with siding to match the house. This type of flush construction is quite strong, stable and affordable: for a 16-foot by 7-foot flush wood door, you can expect to pay from $400 to $700.

Sections of roll-up wood doors may have either flush or panel construction. Flush sections are made by fastening a plywood panel over a wooden frame, like a small version of the flush door described above. For panel doors, manufacturers fit several separate, rectangular panels into a wooden frame. The skeletal framework is built of fir or some other common softwood; panels are made from a variety of materials.

Panels for a door meant to be painted may be flat surfaces of plywood, hardboard, or they may be three-dimensional raised or recessed panels. Cladwood, made from composites with resin-impregnated overlays, or wood look-alikes like Masonite's SureWood raised panels are commonly used for the three-dimensional variety. Cladwood composite panels come with a 20-year warranty but most wood doors are warranted for only 1-year). Installed, an average-sized (16 by 7-foot) paint-grade sectional door normally costs from about $800 to $1000.

Appearance-grade wood doors--those meant to be stained rather than painted--have solid wood panel inserts. These doors may be all cedar, redwood, or may have softwood frames with oak, mahogany, or other hardwood panels. When buying one of these, be sure to find out whether the panels are made from a single, solid piece or made from several widths edge-glued together (the joint between glued-up lengths may show).

Appearance-grade wood doors are the most expensive garage doors available. One with redwood panels will run you about $1500; an all-cedar or an oak-paneled door may cost $2000 or more.

Steel Doors . Steel garage doors are much stronger and more secure than wood, aluminum, or fiberglass ones. Thanks primarily to new technologies in embossing metals with wood-grain patterns, and new durable coatings, today's steel doors rival the look of wood without the maintenance headaches. Steel doors won't warp, crack, delaminate or fall apart because of weather. And, because most are made of hot-dipped, galvanized steel that is vinyl clad or given a baked-on polyester finish, they don't rust or require repainting as often as wood doors. Most warranties guarantee the door won't rust for as long as you own the house, but do not protect against fading. On the downside, steel does dent and can be difficult to repair.

Premium-quality garage doors have cores of rigid polystyrene or polyurethane foam insulation. Not only does this insulation help keep the garage warm in winter and cool in summer, but it makes the door lighter, quieter and easier to operate, and less likely to sag or warp over time.

You can usually discern a steel door's quality both by its thickness and by the thickness of its cladding. A premium door is often a full 2 inches thick, filled with insulation, and clad in 24-gauge steel. Less-expensive doors are usually thinner and made of 28 gauge steel (the lower the number, the thicker the metal).

Doors may be single skin, with a frame that shows from inside, or double skin, sandwiching the foam insulation between panels on both outside and inside. The double-skin construction is much more durable and is attractive from inside the garage.

Weatherstripping is another measure of quality. The best-made doors have a full-width vinyl bubble weatherstripping along the bottom edge of the door that conforms to the floor. They also have rigid-vinyl end caps along the sides of the door panels, a vinyl top cap and weather seals between each section.

Styles imitate those of wood doors: flush, recessed panel and raised panel. You can also get metal doors with a horizontal, ribbed design.

For an average-sized steel door (16 by 7 feet), expect to pay from $750 to $1200 installed.

Aluminum Doors. Aluminum garage doors have enjoyed many of the same advances as steel--wood-grain embossing and durable finishes are typical. Aluminum single-piece, tilt-up doors are fairly popular because they are extremely lightweight, will not rust and are relatively inexpensive--from $400 to $700. Unfortunately, aluminum has a major drawback: it's very easily dented.

Fiberglass Doors . Fiberglass doors actually have an aluminum frame with fiberglass sections. Like aluminum, fiberglass is very lightweight. Other advantages of fiberglass are resistance to salt air corrosion and translucency--fiberglass doors are sometimes chosen for locations where light transmission is important or in corrosive ocean climates. For more standard uses, fiberglass isn't a very popular material because it is a poor insulator, it yellows with age, and it breaks relatively easily, especially when it's cold.

Options
A host of options are available through most manufacturers. For starters, you can order window sections for a decorative accent and to add daylight to a dark garage. Windows may be standard single glazing or --for insulated doors-- dual glazing. Some doors have snap-in decorative frames.

Torsion springs are another option for sectional doors. Though tilt-up doors utilize extension springs--the type that stretch and recoil, torsion springs--a shaft spring and drum assembly--are much better for sectional doors. Torsion springs distribute the door's weight more evenly and cannot break and fly off the way an extension spring can. Extension springs are cheaper but most dealers prefer to install the safer and better torsion springs.

Perhaps one of the most appealing options of all is the automatic operator. Today's operators have rugged motors with lifetime warranties and several other features:

* Photoelectric safety devices that will stop the closing door and reverse it to open position if an invisible light beam is broken by your car or--worse--a child.

* Miniature transmitters that fit on a key chain.

* Transmitters that operate only with a personal code you program into them.

* Multi-button remote controls that will operate appliances and lights in addition to the electric opener.

Where Do You Shop?
Most people find a dealer by looking up "Garage Doors & Door Operating Devices" in the Yellow Pages. Though some of the companies listed in your directory might manufacture their own doors--particularly wood doors--most buy garage door sections from large manufacturers. Some local dealers sell only one manufacturer's doors; others sell a variety of makes. It pays to do your homework before talking with dealers by contacting major manufacturers (see the resource guide BELOW), requesting brochures and product information so that you can compare features. Then contact dealers in your area.

Though some garage door companies have showrooms, most will send a salesperson to your home to discuss your needs, show you manufacturer's brochures from the lines they carry, measure your old door, and get your signature on the dotted line.

Some home centers sell a few makes of garage doors that do-it-yourselfers can install. If you buy a door to install yourself, be sure it comes with complete, easy-to-follow instructions. Also be sure the door includes an extension spring containment kit--without it, extension springs can be very dangerous.

Maintenance
No matter what type of garage door you buy, inspect it every year for loose or worn hinges, springs and other hardware. You can keep moving parts working freely by lubricating them occasionally with light household oil. For repair of springs or operators, it's usually best to contact a trained professional. Manufacturers of wood doors recommend you paint them initially on both the inside and outside and repaint the exterior surface every year or two.

Though they look relatively simple in construction, garage doors actually have many components, especially if they're hooked up to an electric opener. Because of this level of complexity—and the fact that a garage door must stand up against harsh weather—a garage door may suffer from any of several problems.

The most common problem is that the door becomes difficult to lift and lower. This may be something that can be resolved with a few simple adjustments and basic maintenance, or it may be more serious. If the door is connected to an electric opener, the first clue is to disconnect the opener mechanism from the door by pulling the release cord or lever. If the door works fine manually, the problem is with the electric opener; in this case, consult your owner's manual.

A door that seems unusually heavy to lift may have a problem with spring tension. For help with springs, call a qualified garage door contractor.

Problems with a garage door lock can usually be traced to a poorly-aligned lock bar. Fixing this is often just a matter of loosening a couple of screws, re-aligning the mechanism, then tightening the screws.

If you have a wood door, be sure to keep it properly painted or stained, both outside and inside. If you finish only the outside of a garage door, the door may warp and the moisture will subvert the paint, causing it to peel.

Because a garage door is a very large, heavy, moving part, it's prone to fall out of adjustment with daily use. When this happens, the door becomes harder and harder to lift and lower. The best way to prevent a garage door from growing obstinate is to maintain it on a regular basis and, when you notice a problem, to address it immediately before it has a chance to worsen.

The first line of defense is to lubricate the moving parts. As shown at right, apply penetrating oil to all rollers and hinges at least once a year. If you notice any loose screws, bolts, or nuts, tighten them so parts won't fall out of adjustment.

To prevent binding, tracks must be properly aligned to guide the rollers. If one or both of the tracks needs adjustment, loosen its mounting bolt and use a hammer and a wood block to persuade it in the proper direction, as shown at left. Then retighten the bolt.

If you have a swing-up, one-piece door that sags in the middle when it's in the raised position, you may be able to solve the problem by having a garage door contractor install metal reinforcing strips or rods across inner face of the door. Then again, it may be time to replace the door with a roll-up door

Imagine a heavy downpour: rain pounds your roof and torrents spill over the eaves. You can't reach the front door without passing beneath a mini-Niagara. And the basement? Better fire up the sump pump. Get the idea? Before that next storm arrives, it may be a good idea to consider how your house will weather it. This brings us to the subject of gutters.

Granted, gutters aren't exactly glamorous. But they handle a critical task: routing the runoff from a very large surface--your roof--to proper drainage away from the house. By doing this, they keep your house high and dry, protecting siding, windows, doors and foundation from water damage.

Though most gutters are installed on existing roofs, adding them during reroofing simplifies installation and allows them to be fully integrated into the roof system. If you're thinking about installing a new roof, your timing couldn't be better.

Of course, gutters aren't necessary for every house or every roof slope. Broad overhangs may cast runoff well away from the house, where proper grading and drainage can carry it away. If this is the case with your house, save your money for a different type of rainy day.

If you look under "Gutters" in the Yellow Pages, you'll see numerous ads touting "seamless," "soldered," "continuous," "copper," "sheet metal" and other varieties. Which ones are right for your house? The following should help you sort through the possibilities.

Gutter Basics
Gutters and downspouts are made from wood, vinyl, and several metals, including aluminum, galvanized steel, stainless steel and copper. Wood gutters are virtually obsolete, except for their use in restoration work. You can buy vinyl gutters at home-improvement centers as do-it-yourself systems; professional gutter installers also install them. Sheet metal shops and gutter specialists make and install most metal gutters.

Before we focus on materials, let's look at a few fundamentals. First, you can buy either "sectional" or "seamless" gutters.

Sectional types are sold or installed as component systems--preformed channels, 10- to 22-feet long, with matching corners, end caps, connectors, drop outlets, downspouts and other fittings. They're made of prepainted steel, galvanized steel, painted aluminum or vinyl. All do-it-yourself gutter systems fall into this category; many professionals install them as well.

Seamless gutters, today's most popular type, are extruded from metal "coil" stock, using a special machine that's brought to your home by a gutter fabricator. As their name implies, they don't have potentially leaky seams along their lengths--their biggest selling point. The lengths join to inside and outside corner components and downspout outlets. Seamless gutters are usually formed from aluminum that has a baked-on finish, but they may be made from copper or factory-painted steel.

Sizes and Profiles
Gutters are formed in several profiles and sizes. The standard profiles are a simple "U" shape and a "K" style, which has a ogee-shaped front, vaguely reminiscent of the letter "K." Channels are 4, 5 or 6 inches in diameter; 5-inch K-style gutters are a popular type. Matching downspouts are 2 by 3-inch or 3 by 4-inch rectangular profiles or 3 or 4-inch round (often corrugated) pipes. The larger systems are generally worth the difference in price because they're less likely to clog. If trees overhang your house, 3 by 4-inch downspouts are a good idea.

A Matter of Metal
Aluminum and steel are the two most common professionally installed gutter materials. The one that is best depends on your situation. Major plusses for aluminum gutters are that they're relatively inexpensive and will never rust. Steel gutters are sturdier; this isn't necessarily an issue unless you'll be leaning ladders against the house for access to the roof or live where high winds, trees, or other factors may cause wear and tear.

Most homeowners opt for seamless aluminum. Lyle Brandt, with All New Gutter Service in Fargo , North Dakota , has been in the seamless gutter business for 15 years. He says, "In this area here, we're probably 90% seamless gutters. I like aluminum because downspouts get plugged and you get water sitting in the gutter, but you don't have to worry about rust. Steel will rust out after a time."

Brandt adds, "I've laid them side by side on the ground and dropped a screwdriver on them and the steel dents just as easily [as aluminum]. Every once in a while, we use steel to match a color that only steel comes in. Steel is a little bit cheaper." The price range for steel tends to run from $2.50 to $4 per foot. Aluminum gutters cost from $5 to $9 per lineal foot, installed. The metal is available in more than one thickness--opt for the thickest (.032 gauge) material.

Both aluminum and steel are made in a broad palette of colors. Alcoa produces a faux copper gutter that, at about $9 per lineal foot, installed, offers the look of copper at about half the price of the real thing.

Sectional Solutions
If you're planning to install your own gutters, a sectional vinyl system is your best bet. Rain Master, made by Bemis, has silicone gaskets that compress to form tight, leak-proof seals and allow gutters to expand and contract with heat changes. You virtually just plug the entire system together.

Vinyl doesn't rust, rot or require a finish, but it can become brittle over the years and crack when the weather is particularly cold. Colors are more limited: white and brown are the most common. Dark tones of vinyl tend to degrade from exposure to the sun's ultraviolet rays. Vinyl sectional gutters are relatively inexpensive at from $3 to $5 per 10-foot length, but you must factor-in the cost of fittings, which push the overall price per lineal foot to about $3 to $5.

Sectional aluminum gutters come in over 25 different colors; if you're looking to match a particular color of siding or trim, you may have the best success with these.

Sectional galvanized sheet metal gutters are another option. Mike Burgess of M&M Custom Sheet Metal in Burbank , California , says, "Before the last five years, most people chose galvanized gutters, which had to be painted. As a sheet metal contractor, I still prefer to do metal products [sheet metal]. Aluminum doesn't hold up substantially to a metal product. Even so, we do mostly aluminum because that's what people want."

Galvanized steel gutters may be professionally installed or purchased from home improvement centers as do-it-yourself systems--but the components must be soldered together, a challenge for the novice. Despite the galvanized finish, if water stands in the troughs, the gutter will eventually rust. And they must be painted. Burgess suggests, "Get bonderized steel gutters--they're pre-etched, so you just need to get a good red oxidized primer and a high quality paint. Be sure to get the chemical residues off before painting--wipe it down with a vinegar wash or a galvanize wash, available in hardware stores." Installed, galvanized steel gutters cost from $5.50 to $10 per lineal foot.

Copper Gutters
Most people agree that copper makes the ultimate gutter: handsome, with a natural patina that ages to a verdigris color. It doesn't require any finish. It will last as long as the house because it doesn't rust.

Copper gutters are installed either as half-round sectional systems or in the same profiles as seamless aluminum gutters. Sectional systems, fabricated by metal shops and soldered at the joints, are very expensive. Prices fluctuate with the value of copper, but expect to pay $15 to $20 per lineal foot. Seamless copper gutters, typically made from 16-ounce copper, are slightly less: from $13 to $18 per lineal foot, installed. At these values, copper gutters have become a target for thieves in some cities.

For restoration purists, lead-coated copper is also available in some areas. This will last over 75 years. A 5-inch sectional system runs over $20 per lineal foot, installed.

Stainless Steel
Though seldom used, stainless steel is another high-end custom material. Like copper, it doesn't rust and will last as long as the house. It is a little too glitzy for most homeowners, particularly at an installed cost of about $20 per lineal foot.

A Word About Wood
Wood gutters are rarely installed anymore because they are expensive and require considerable maintenance. But for architectural purists, wood is still an important option. Select lumber dealers have them specially milled and sell them in 10- and 20-foot lengths. Wood gutters are usually used with metal downspouts. The cost range for wood gutters runs from about $12 to $20, depending on the species, profile and general availability. Redwood and red cedar heartwoods have a natural resistance to decay, Douglas fir is also commonly used. Wood gutters should be treated with linseed oil once a year for water resistance. Wood can be painted, but because paint will crack and peel with moisture, painted gutters require periodic repainting.

Mounting Systems
Gutters are attached along a house's eaves by any of several types of straps, brackets and hangers, as shown in the illustration BELOW.

Dan Sommers of Mr. Penny Gutters in Pasadena , California , says, "We primarily use the hidden hanger method because, over the years, as the wood gets a little older, spikes [of a spike-and-ferrule hanger] tend to pull out. We screw a hanger to the fascia or rafter tail. When we don't have that alternative because there are no rafters or no fascia to attach to, we have to use a strap. If we can't get the strap under the shingles, we encourage the homeowner to wait and install gutters in conjunction with a new roof."

A crossbar hanger is particularly sturdy. It clips on front, goes over top of the gutter and clips on the bracket at the back.

Buying Tips
Anyone who can afford about $20,000 for a seamless gutter machine can start a gutter business, so be sure to check references and get more than one bid. If you're considering seamless gutters and one bid is considerably lower than another, check the gauge and other details. Coil stock is sold in several thicknesses, including .032, .027, and .025 inch. Be sure to specify the thicker .032 material. Also ask whether the material is primary or secondary aluminum. Primary aluminum is more likely to be of a consistent quality.

Be sure your contractor will hang gutters along a chalk line, snapped to allow the proper slope of 1/4 inch for each 10 feet toward a downspout. That way, your new gutters will flow properly, look good and add to the value of your house.

Leaf-catching Systems
Gutters should be kept free of leaves and other debris, otherwise water will back up at the downspouts, filling them up. When this happens, the weight can dislodge or bend the gutters. And, over time, sheet metal gutters may rust.

Inspect and clean gutters and downspouts at least twice a year. If you have this done professionally, expect to pay about $95 to $125 for a single-story, 2500-square-foot house and more for a two-story or larger house.

As an alternative, you may want to consider a leaf-catching system that filters leaves and debris from the water. Several types are manufactured, each exploiting a slightly different principle. Some may work well; others may not. The best way to check out a system is to request the names and phone numbers of satisfied customers and give them a call.

Even protected gutters will need to be cleaned on occasion (see below). Be sure you're clear about the ease of removing the leaf-catching devices (some are screwed in place or tucked under shingles). And consider the cost. Some of these are more expensive than the gutters themselves. Installed, Gutter Helmet costs about $9 per lineal foot; Waterloov is about $7.50 per foot; and Leafguard runs about $7 per foot. Rainhandler, a device that eliminates the gutter entirely by deflecting water into a spray, costs about $22 for a 5-foot section of the materials.

On the other hand, if you can't keep up with your gutter-cleaning chores, these systems may save your house from serious water damage.

Gutter Maintenance
Be sure your downspouts expel water well away from your house. If necessary, add downspout extenders that run horizontally and carry the water away from the house. Also consider concrete or plastic splashblocks, slightly sloped and extending away from the house at least 4 feet.

The slope of gutters may also need to be adjusted from time to time. Run water through them, and if they drain slowly, reposition them so that they slope toward the downspouts at a rate of 1 inch for every 20 feet.

Also check downspouts for rust, flaking or peeling paint, leaks, and that they are affixed tightly against the fascia boards. Check the fascia boards themselves for dry rot or other damage and if need be replace with lumber treated with wood preservative and finished to match the other boards.

If your gutters are leaking, the prime suspects are the joints between sections. To seal a leak, apply silicone-rubber caulking compound along the seams on the inside and outside of the gutter.

Patch small holes with roofing cement. Use a putty knife to spread the cement generously around the hole. Do this on a warm day or otherwise warm the cement to room temperature so it spreads easily.

Repair larger holes in your gutters by covering them with patches. Take a sheet-metal patch, embed it in roofing cement, then apply another coat of cement over the patch.

If your climate delivers abundant rainfall, you may want to have your downspout run into a dry well. The well should be a hole 2 to 4 feet wide and 3 feet deep, or a 55-gallon drum, with both ends removed and filled with rocks, that you've buried and punctured with holes. Underground drainage pipes should slope to the dry well, which will effectively keep water away from the house's foundations. Check local building codes before installing.


How to Clean Gutters
To do their job, gutters and downspouts must be clear of leaves and debris. If they aren't, drain outlets will dam-up and rainwater will fill the gutters, back up, overflow, and eventually pull gutters loose from their mountings. Water that pools in troughs will rot wood gutters and rust sheet metal ones.

You can hire a service to clean your gutters (see "Gutters" in your Yellow Pages), but by doing the work yourself you can save $100 or more.

Plan to clean gutters at least twice a year-more often if the roof is directly beneath trees. But only take on this task yourself if you know you can work safely from a ladder or the roof. If your roof is higher than a single story or you're unsure of your job's safety, you're better off hiring a professional.

Choose a sturdy ladder and place it on a firm, level base. A tall stepladder can be easier to use than an extension ladder; if you must lean an extension ladder against a gutter, protect the gutter from bending by placing a short piece of 2-by-4 inside it. Stand on the ladder with your hips between the rails-don't lean out over the sides. Never stand on the top two rungs.

If you're comfortable working from the rooftop and your roof has a very low pitch, this can be easier than working from a ladder. But only do this under extremely safe conditions. Never work on the roof in wet, icy, or windy conditions. Wear non-slip shoes and never lean over the edge or work near power lines.

When cleaning gutters, wear heavy work gloves to protect your hands. Gutters often have sharp metal parts or screw points sticking out into their troughs; take care to avoid cutting your hands. Also wear safety glasses or goggles.

The conventional method for cleaning gutters is discussed below. A method sometimes used by home handymen on low-sloped roofs is to blow dry debris out of gutters with a leaf-blower. If you use this method, wear goggles and a dust mask, and be very careful!

1 Scoop out loose debris [Fig. 1].
Starting at a drain outlet at the low end of a gutter, use a narrow garden trowel to scoop out loose debris, working away from drain outlet. It's usually easiest to do this when the debris is slightly damp and pliable--not soggy or dried and encrusted. To minimize cleanup later, you can scoop the debris into a plastic garbage can liner.

2 Blast out the gutters with a hose [Fig. 2].
Using an on-off high-pressure nozzle mounted at the end of a water hose, wash out each length of gutter, working toward the drain outlet. This can be a messy job-avoid splattering mud all over your house. If necessary, use a stiff scrub brush to break loose encrusted dirt.

3 Clear obstructions in drainpipes [Fig. 3].
If water doesn't drain freely through drainpipes, try flushing debris down them with the hose. If that doesn't work, use a plumber's auger (snake) to free and pull out debris from the bottom as shown. You can help keep the drainpipes free of debris by installing leaf strainers in at the tops (these are available at home-improvement centers and hardware stores).

4 Repair leaks .
If you see areas where water is leaking through seams between gutter sections, mark the leak locations with chalk, allow the gutter to dry completely, then seal the leaks from inside with gutter seal.

5 Re-align sagging gutters .
If gutters are not sloped properly at a pitch of 1 inch for each 20 feet of length, they won't drain properly toward downspouts. To support sagging gutters, bend or add new hangers, or add new fasteners.

--Don Vandervort

Refinishing a Wood Deck

A new wood deck provides a warm, handsome connection with the outdoors, adding to a home's beauty and setting the stage for a world of outdoor activities. But decks take a lot of abuse, both from use and through continued exposure to weather. After a few years, they become weathered and unfriendly without proper care.

Fortunately, most deck surface problems are cosmetic, not structural because decking is built of durable woods: usually redwood, cedar, or pressure-treated pine. Redwood and cedar heartwoods have a natural resistance to termites and decay; pine is pressure-treated with a pesticide to give it insect and decay-blocking power.

Even so, ultraviolet radiation (UV) from the sun breaks down surface fibers and lignin, causing graying and surface erosion. Moisture encourages surface mildew and causes stains, particularly in damp or humid climates. And natural extractives in redwood and cedar can discolor the surface.

The road to restoring a deck's great looks is usually simple, regardless of the type of wood used for its construction. First you clean it, then you diagnose and treat any discoloration. And last, you protect the result with a durable finish.

Cleaning
Debris that clogs the spaces between deck boards traps moisture, encouraging mildew and rot. Blast out the debris, using a powerful nozzle on a garden hose, then push out remaining debris with a putty knife or an old handsaw. Thoroughly scrub the surface with a sudsy mixture of water and laundry detergent, using a stiff fiber brush on a long handle. Work in small areas and rinse periodically. This may be all it takes to return much of the wood's natural tone.

For a large deck, you can rent a power washer that delivers 1,200 psi of pressure or less to blast and rinse the decking. It should have a nozzle that fans an arc of about 25º to 40º. Wearing safety goggles, hold the nozzle about 6 inches above the deck's surface and spray slowly in line with the wood grain, overlapping your path. Be careful: the powerful spray can erode soft wood grain. After washing, allow the deck to dry for several clear days before applying a finish.

Eliminating Discoloration
Several products are available for dealing with discoloration and stains. Commercially-available powder or liquid-concentrates have a base of non-chlorine bleach or oxalic acid; a detergent may be part of the formula. Bleach-based products eliminate mildew, acid-based materials handle graying and stains. Some products may darken woods such as redwood and cedar, so be sure to test any material in an inconspicuous place.

Always wear rubber gloves, goggles, and old clothes when working with these chemicals and follow the directions explicitly. Caution: Never mix detergent containing ammonia with household bleach; the resulting fumes can be highly toxic.

Test for mildew by applying a drop of undiluted liquid household bleach to a small, black spot. If the spot disappears after a minute or two, clean the deck with a mild cleanser (no ammonia) and rinse with a solution of 1 part household liquid bleach to 4 parts water, then rinse with water. For stubborn mildew, mix one cup trisodium phosphate ( TSP ) and one cup household liquid bleach in one gallon of water and scrub with a stiff bristle brush. Rinse after about 15 minutes.

Non-mildew stains are often caused by natural wood extractives or corroding hardware and nails. Familiar, general graying of the decking is usually the result of surface wood cells that have been broken down by UV radiation and wear. Bleach used to kill mildew can also leave a surface drab and washed-out.

For these problems, an acid-based deck restoration product is best. You can buy a pre-mixed oxalic acid deck cleaner or purchase oxalic acid crystals from a hardware store or home-improvement center and mix a solution of four ounces crystals to one quart water in a non-metallic container. Wearing rubber gloves, eye protection, and old clothes, apply with a rag to a one board at a time and scrub with a soft brush. Allow to dry, then rinse with clear water.

You can strip and clean a deck that has an existing stain finish, using a commercial "deck scrub" that you brush in and rinse off. Follow the label directions.

Finish Treatments
Though some people paint decks with deck paint, most choose to take advantage of the natural beauty of expensive decking woods by applying a clear or lightly stained finish. If you do choose to paint, use a stain-blocking oil or alkyd primer first.

In general, the best finishes are those that soak into the wood, not those that provide a surface film. According to Bill Evans, Technical Coordinator at Thompson & Formby, "A heavily pigmented, solid stain isn't really recommended for decking because it shows wear patterns and may tend to peel. You want something that really soaks in. "

There are three important characteristics to look for in a finish. First, the finish should be "water repellent" or "water proof," not just "water resistant." Second, it should offer UV (ultraviolet) protection. And third, if mildew is a potential problem, the finish should contain a mildewcide, which a "wood preservative" does. Regular preservatives should be reapplied once a year; newer and better "toner" products offer more UV protection and may last up to four years. Whatever product you choose, read the label to be sure it's right for your deck. Buy quality materials and follow the manufacturer's directions for application. Your result will be a deck that provides you with years of lasting beauty and enjoyment.

--Don Vandervort

When it comes to home improvements, many of us have champagne tastes on a beer budget—we noodle-out the perfect plan for a project, then the contractors' bids come in at twice what we can afford. So we become do-it-yourselfers. We know that, by eliminating the labor expense, we can often chop a project's cost in half.

But should you do the work yourself? The answer depends upon a number of factors, including your abilities, your collection of tools and safety gear, your time, and your inclination to roll up your sleeves.

Unless you are a highly skilled do-it-yourselfer, avoid taking on jobs that may be dangerous, particularly difficult, or where a mistake can be quite costly. Some jobs simply are not worth the risk. For example, think twice before doing:

• Extensive electrical work
• Plumbing that involves crawling under the house
• Roofing work on a steeply-pitched or high roof
• Difficult or laborious work, such as chopping out and pouring a new concrete floor
• Siding work that requires scaffolding higher than two stories
• Work where there may be hidden mysteries
• Any other task that you're not confident you can handle.

Consider you skills, tools, and time. Then take a closer look at your options before you make a final decision.

Skills. Be realistic about your skills. Don't try to take on work that you won't be able to finish or that may end up looking unprofessional. Avoid intricate work or work that requires a high degree of craftsmanship unless you're competent at the job. For example, don't plan on building raised-panel cabinets unless you have the necessary cabinetmaking skills.

Tools. Be aware that you'll need special tools for some jobs. You can rent tools, and you can often buy tools with what you'll save on labor, but if you don't already own the tools, you probably don't have very much experience at using them. Once again, think twice before jumping in with both feet unless you have experience with the necessary tools.

Time. Don't forget to take your time into consideration. Even spare time has a value—and the value of yours is worth factoring into the equation. Although a professional repairperson can probably do the job considerably faster than you can, you actually may complete some jobs sooner by doing them yourself because you won't have to wait for professionals to show up.

A closer look at your alternatives. There is definitely something to be said for hiring a pro to handle a project from start to finish—particularly if you find a professional who gives you a quality job at a good price.

Unfortunately, that isn't always easy. The best way to find good people is through personal recommendations. Talk to friends or neighbors who have had similar work done and were happy with the results and the service. Or, on the web, you can go to ServiceMagic to get local, pre-screened home professionals (they have screened more than 30,000 contractors, home repair people, etc.).

Or you can talk to local building supply dealers or turn to the Yellow Pages --your most likely source of names if you're dealing with a home-repair emergency. So that you're not left to this device in a pinch, it pays to have the names and numbers of good repair services on hand. It's also smart to check with the local chapter of the Better Business Bureau to make sure there isn't a history of consumer complaints against the pro you plan to hire.

For problems with products or some materials--such as appliances, flooring, or carpeting--always check the conditions of your warranty before hiring a repairperson or doing the work yourself. By using factory-authorized service people, you may not have to pay for the repair if the material is under warranty. And if you don't use authorized service people, not only will you have to pay--you may void your warranty.

Another option is to do some of the work yourself and save the more complicated tasks for the pros. Demolition work usually can be tackled by homeowners who aren't afraid of getting a little dirty. Painting is another good way to be involved in the project and save money. But be aware that, if you set up this type of arrangement, you must stay ahead of your contractor—he or she won't want to be slowed down by the need to wait for you.

Do you have a basement that, during a heavy rain, looks more like a swimming pool? Basement flooding is a common problem, particularly in houses situated on flat terrain where rain and snow melt have little chance for runoff. When the ground becomes saturated, ground water pressure builds, forcing water towards any path of little resistance. If the water finds cracks and fissures in your foundation walls or floors, it easily seeps in to fill the "pool"--your basement.

The answer to this problem is a sump pump system. Sump pumps have been keeping basement laundry areas, storage rooms and recreation rooms pond-free in many parts of the country for years. They were first used in the New England and Mid-Atlantic states and Great Lakes regions but as cities have grown, so have water-runoff problems. Now sump pumps are common wherever basement flooding occurs. In fact, many communities require a basement sump pump in all new homes.

WHAT IS A SUMP SYSTEM?
A sump pump system consists of four major parts: a ground-water collection system, a sump tank, a pump and an outlet drain. Here's how they work:

Ground water is collected by drain rock and drain tile buried along the foundation (and, in some cases, under the floor). Drain tile carries the water to the sump tank (or two sump tanks, in a large house) that is buried in the basement floor.

The sump tank, also called a "basin," "crock," or "sump pit," may be made of clay, tile, steel, concrete, fiberglass or polyethylene. Though they vary in size, standard tanks are about 18 inches in diameter and from 2 to 3 feet deep. Normally, a tank is located at the low point of the basement. Most tanks have a hole in each side for incoming drain tile and all have a sturdy cover. When ground water fills the tank to a given level, a float or some other switching device activates a pump. (Though much less common, some pumps are controlled manually.) Many pump manufacturers sell polypropylene or fiberglass tanks custom-fitted to their pumps.

Standard sump pumps are electric, powered by household current. There are two main types: submersible and pedestal. A submersible pump is completely concealed inside the tank. A pedestal model has a column that protrudes up through the tank's cover; the motor is mounted on the column, above the floor level. Both types draw water in through a filter trap (this should be cleaned periodically). They pump water out through a discharge pipe and/or hose. As soon as an automatic pump empties the tank to a certain level, it's motor turns off.

If it's connected to a sewer, the discharge pipe has a check valve and may have an anti-siphon device to prevent back-flow. Or the discharge pipe may simply connect to a hose that carries the water well away from the house. Codes in most areas dictate where the water must be discharged.

REPLACING OR INSTALLING A PUMP
If you're not sure whether or not your home has an existing sump pump, look for the tank in the basement. Start at the lowest point of the floor; that's where the tank is normally located. Look for a heavy cover that has a discharge pipe sticking out of the top. You'll probably also see an electrical wire or conduit nearby. If it's a pedestal-style pump, you'll see the motor above the lid, too.

Installing a new sump system is a job for a professional basement waterproofing contractor or plumber. It involves trenching, breaking through the basement floor and laying pipe. Obviously, this work isn't cheap--expect to pay $2000 or more.

Replacing a sump pump, on the other hand, can be a fairly manageable job for those who are handy at such things. You just pull the electrical plug and disconnect the pump from the piping. (Always disconnect the power before handling a sump pump; never handle any live electrical components when standing in water.) If you have a submersible pump, it is usually a good idea to remove it annually for cleaning anyway.

BUYING OPTIONS
You can buy a new sump pump through do-it-yourself retailers, plumbing wholesalers or waterproofing contractors. The prices range from about $60 to $500 or more, depending upon quality and features.

First decide between a pedestal and submersible pump. A submersible is out of sight and earshot, an important advantage if the basement is used as a primary living area. It's also much safer if there are children in the house.

But pedestal pumps are less expensive and last longer. Because submersibles sit in water a good deal of the time, they have a life span of from 5 to 15 years. Pedestals, on the other hand, may continue to operate for as long as 25 or 30 years. (Because a pump's life is closely related to the conditions and frequency of its use, most manufacturers offer limited 1-year warranties.)
Pedestal pumps are also much easier to repair.

Automatic switches come in several types, including floats, diaphragms and mercury switches. It doesn't really matter which type you choose--but be sure to choose one of them. By the precepts of Murphy's Law, if you put in a pump with a manual control, you won't be home to turn it on the next time your basement begins to flood. An automatic switch can protect the pump, too. Most pumps burn out if they run "dry" for too long. An automatic switch prevents this from happening.

Price is directly connected to a unit's strength. Almost without exception, the least expensive models are also the weakest. A sump pump is measured by horsepower--pumps range from 1/6 to 1/2 HP.

But more important is the number of gallons per minute ( GPM ) or gallons per hour (GPH) a pump will move. This capacity is a factor of both the pump's efficiency and the "head" or "lift"--that is, the vertical distance from the bottom of the sump to the highest point of discharge. A pump may advertise "2400 GPH" but this may be measured at a 1-foot head. At a 5-foot head, that figure might drop to 2100 GPH and at 10-feet, 1800 GPH. Also note whether the pump is strong enough to pass small solids, such as leaves and twigs.

Materials that make up a pump also affect price. Look for parts and housings that won't corrode--cast bronze, alloy, stainless steel and epoxy-coated cast iron housings are favorable; avoid sheet metal. Polypropylene and related plastics are used in all grades of pumps.

Pay attention to the power cord's length, too. They come with 5, 10, 15, 20 and 25-foot-long power cords. Extension cords shouldn't be used with sump pumps.

BACK-UP PUMPS
You can also buy pumps that will operate even when the electrical power goes out--in a thunderstorm, major flood or brownout, for example. Most of these are intended to be auxiliary pumps--used in tandem with the primary pump, they kick-in if the main pump fails. One type runs on a rechargeable 12-volt battery. Another is hooked up to the house's water system and operates by water pressure.

Whether or not you need a backup really depends on your situation--the likelihood of a power or pump failure and the damage such a failure could cause. In some cases, an inexpensive high-water alarm will suffice. On the other hand, if you're going to lie in bed on a rainy night and wonder if your new sisal-wool carpet is under water, a backup may give you more than flood protection--it may give you peace of mind.

--Don Vandervort